JSE Seoul Searching

Farewell, Korea

2011-12-20T00:18:00.000+09:00

Dear Korea,

We met two years + three months ago, and my what an adventure we've had! You've changed a lot, and I have, too.

As I prepare to depart from your land of morning calm, I wanted to express my heartfelt gratitude.

Thank you for drawing an eclectic mix of individuals. Many of them have become my friends and have been swell companions as we explored your buzzing terrain together.

Thank you for your randomness and quirkiness. They've kept me intrigued and given me ample inspiration for writing.

Thank you for pushing me every day to challenge myself. During those moments when I began to drift into a comfort zone of sorts, you threw me a curve ball and kept me on my toes.

Finally, thank you for reminding me on a daily basis where to find my strength and put my hope. Through little serendipities and all-out miracles, God's presence in my life felt more real and alive here than ever before.

In closing, you've given me amazing experiences and memories. I'll always be grateful for my time with you. Let's keep in touch, shall we?

Until we meet again,

jse

Journey

2011-12-19T22:34:00.000+09:00

Don't stop believin', hold on to that feelin'. -Journey

One of my favorite places in all of Seoul is Journey -a Kondae bar, owned and operated by Jason Yim. My friends here know that Journey is where I like to go to listen to good tunes and enjoy good conversation.

There are several reasons why Journey is special, but first and foremost is Jason himself. He has an encyclopedic knowledge of 20th century music, and his memory for customer names and details is extraordinary. His music collection is comprised of more than 6,000 albums, and he knows exactly where to locate any song that customers request.

On this, my last night in Korea, I'm reflecting on the things I'll miss most. Jason and Journey rank high on the list.

Food Promotions

2011-12-18T22:29:00.000+09:00

HG and I were in for quite a treat today with not one but two photo-worthy promotions. Both were related to food -ironic given our deep shared interest in that subject.

First up, in Myeongdong: a lethargic Colonel Sanders distributing flyers for KFC while apparently conserving energy:

Next, in Insadong: the sushi-heads -vastly more energetic and eager for a photo opp:

Gosh, I'm gonna miss the daily randomness...

Cute or Creepy?

2011-12-16T19:52:00.000+09:00

By now faithful readers must have realized there's no shortage of cute in Korea. For the record, however, not everything dwells in the cutesy realm.

That said, I'm still deciding on whether these banners are aiming for cuteness or if they're just flat-out creepy. They appear to be promoting a DJ-hosted New Year's Eve party for the 18 and over crowd, featuring cartoonized men in drag.

Cute or creepy?

Back to Brown

2011-12-15T22:38:00.000+09:00

Lucy worked her magic on my hair yet again, and now I'm back to brown -which I love. I definitely feel more like myself with warm brown low-lights vs. lots of blonde highlights.

Here we are, striking the ubiquitous kimchi pose:

And then, really hamming things up with the famous heart pose, popular with Korean couples:

PS: I still love Lucy! She really does an awesome job, particularly with westerners' hair. For more info, visit her website at: http://lucyhair.com/, and tell her Jennifer from Konkuk sent you.

Turtle Melon Bread

2011-12-14T23:45:00.000+09:00

How have I managed to live in Korea for 2+ years and never notice turtle melon bread before today?

These pastries are just so darn cute, and after spotting them earlier at E-Mart (where else?!), I'm super curious to know what they taste like.

Readers, weigh in: is turtle melon bread worth deviating from my South Beach Diet regime?

HK Kitchen Domination

2011-12-14T17:01:00.000+09:00

Have just returned from E-Mart where I stumbled upon significant proof that Hello Kitty is indeed taking over the world. This display focused on her dominance of the domestic realm, specifically the kitchen.

How will I survive in America without easy access to an HK whisk? Or knife?!

Thank You Notes

2011-12-13T20:29:00.000+09:00

My last week at Konkuk is rapidly coming to an end -a bittersweet time indeed. It has been an incredible joy to teach at this university and interact with so many motivated students (and faculty!) for the last year and a half. I'm grateful to have met them all and trust many of us will remain in contact.

Right now we're in the midst of finals, and things are hectic as we wrap up the semester. As someone who thrives on encouragement, I was delighted to find notes from a few students on the back pages of their exams. In the cases above, these words were written by three students who consistently demonstrated exceptional effort in every class, making my job all the more joyful and fun.

************

To all of my colleagues and students who may be reading this: thank you for giving me the privilege and honor of working with you. I miss you already and hope you'll keep in touch.

Martin Luther

2011-12-13T09:27:00.000+09:00

Last week on my way to the National Pension Office, I passed by a statue of Martin Luther. It was such an unexpected sight, one I truly enjoyed.

I've been thinking about Luther a lot ever since -what an inspiring man! In his lifetime, he expressed profound, life-changing ideas and accomplished great things. Here's one of my favorite quotes:

God writes the Gospel not in the Bible alone, but also on trees, and in the flowers and clouds and stars. -Martin Luther

Nearby the statue Luther, was another rather intriguing work of art. What do you make of it?

Cinderella Surgery

2011-12-12T20:42:00.000+09:00

It's well-known that plastic surgery is socially acceptable and common in Korea. Every day I see advertisements for various procedures, and while the signs may still make me sad on occasion, they don't faze me as much as they used to. In fact, I generally ignore them. Unless they're original and clever, like the one below:

Mr. Sim's Largesse

2011-12-11T17:57:00.000+09:00

On behalf of the group, I returned to Mr. Sim's store today to purchase more gloves for folks at Seoul Station. Not only did Mr. Sim honor last week's special discounted pricing (10 pairs for 30,000 won), he also threw in a big bag of scarves.

The bag was really heavy, and after getting home and examining the contents, I understood why: 25 warm winter scarves were tucked inside.

The group also experienced another surprising windfall: last night we received clothing donations from two friends -a thick wool scarf and a heavy winter jacket- and financial donations from two others. It reminds me of the loaves and fishes account found in all four gospels.

Key takeaway: God can multiply meager resources into unexpected largesse by stirring people's hearts. Awesome!

Unusually Superstitious

2011-12-09T15:40:00.000+09:00

Does anything seem unusual about this elevator sign? I noticed it yesterday at the National Pension Office in Songpa-gu.

Since when are 2, 11, and 12 on the superstitious numbers list?

Pension Office

2011-12-08T21:53:00.001+09:00

A visit today to the National Pension Office was slick as a whistle, to borrow an expression from my grandpa.

In fact, the NPS Songpa branch in Jamsil may just be my all-time #1 experience at a Korean government-run office, which is saying a lot considering how much I enjoy going to the post office here.

I love the NPS motto hanging up on their office walls. It's hard to read in the photo, but it says: Deeper Love, Better Service. Can you imagine seeing that at your local IRS or USPS branch?!

The Songpa NPS branch is very close to Jamsil Station. Exit gate 8, and walk about 200 meters, then turn left. It's directly across from the giant Tesco.

taken in front of the NPS office, facing out -Tesco's in the background

For those who may also be leaving Korea soon, visit the NPS website^ to look up your local branch office; then, make sure you bring the following items with you:

passport
alien registration card
one-way plane ticket out of Korea (departure date must be within 1 month of filing with NPS)
your Korean bank info (bank book)
your foreign bank info (voided check or bank statement)

^NPS English site: http://english.nps.or.kr

Kosney Cute

2011-12-07T23:03:00.000+09:00

Kosney is one of the stores in Korea that I'll surely miss. We don't really have any shops like it in the States -or, at least, none commonly found. Along with Artbox, another favorite, it is an avalanche of sugary-sweetness. Cuteness to the extreme.

Incidentally, I'm completely within their target demographic. It's not like it's a Build-A-Bear or Disney Store. They've got clothes, accessories, stationery, home furnishings, candy, and more. In a way, it kind of resembles an Anthropologie, except Kosney's cute quotient is off-the-charts and unparalleled.

Ahhh, Korea. The limits of cute know no bounds here.

Couples

2011-12-06T22:48:00.001+09:00

Couples in Korea take their couple status very seriously. Very. Seriously.

This cultural phenomenon manifests itself in various ways. For example, there are numerous couples celebrations -Valentine's Day and White Day are only the beginning. There's actually a couples event on the 14th of every month, each with a different theme (e.g. Photo Day, Green Day, Hug Day). Couples also mark and celebrate their days of being together, as in 100 days, 200 days, 300 days...

And then there are the ubiquitous couples clothes and accessories. Sweatshirts, caps, shoes, rings, cell phone charms...

Tonight's photos depict couples undies (mainly because these are pics I had in my stash). I'll search for more couples items to photograph in the next few days and try to get them posted here soon. Shouldn't be too difficult -an entirely separate blog could be devoted to this topic.

Neo What...?!

2011-12-05T23:49:00.000+09:00

A student was wearing this shirt the other day. I have no idea what it means. I wanted to ask him, but then I envisioned two outcomes:

he wouldn't know the meaning either, OR:
he'd explain it to me, and an awkward conversation would follow.

Thus, I'm resigned to letting it remain a mystery. Unless, of course, you happen to know...

Namdaemun Generosity

2011-12-04T23:25:00.000+09:00

We had such a windfall today with regard to our Seoul Station outreach, that I feel compelled to mention it here.

In short, there's a vendor in Namdaemun that I like to patronize. He's friendly, and his prices are fair. He's accustomed to seeing me pass by and/or through his shop on a now-weekly basis and is familiar with what we've been doing at the station.

Today we popped in to buy a bunch of gloves. Not only did he give us terrific pricing on 10 pairs, he also threw in -free of charge- five beautiful + warm, red-checked scarves. We were amazed at his generosity and vowed to return next weekend for more supplies.

After bringing the goods to new and old acquaintances at Seoul Station, I returned to Namdaemun to express our gratitude. Not merely in words, but also by dropping off a few beverages and, more importantly, spending more money in his shop. The hat pictured below is a new acquisition. And my niece REP is going to be getting a set of pink bunny earmuffs in her Christmas stocking...

Readers, if you're in the market for scarves, mittens, gloves, earmuffs, or hats, go to Yoo Seong Cap, easily accessed from Gate 8. Ask for Mr. Sim, and tell him Jennifer of Seoul Station sent you.

Yoo Seong Cap (Mr. Jeong-Il Sim, owner)

#36-1 D-dong, 33 Namchang-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul

tel: 02.754.1936

mobile: 010.3715.3814

Korean Cosmetics Stores

2011-12-03T21:31:00.001+09:00

Oh, how I adore Korean cosmetics stores!

They get me excited on multiple levels, but here are a few reasons:

free samples just for walking inside (window shopping okay, the girls exclaim to get you in the door)
super cute packaging
effective products at awesome prices
more samples with purchase

Tonight I stayed local in Kondae, but there were plenty of shops competing for my attention. Ultimately I spent the bulk of my time in Etude House. Can you blame me after checking out these pics...?!

roll-on perfume in citrus

the best nail polish at the best prices!

nose hair trimmers

hair mask

Pakistani Cooking

2011-12-02T23:09:00.001+09:00

Biryani and raita and lentils, oh my!

Have just returned from my first Pakistani cooking class. Our teacher, Monica, hails from Pakistan and now lives in Itaewon where she offers cooking classes in her home. It was a treat to watch and learn as she demonstrated how to prepare a full Pakistani meal.

A bigger treat, however, was dining on the finished product (photos below).

For those interested, I'm eager to try out these new recipes, especially when I get back to the States. Hungry?

happy students with our teacher

The Most Wonderful Time...

2011-12-01T22:10:00.000+09:00

Never mind that I'm leaving in 18 days. I've still got two and a half weeks to celebrate Christmas right here in Seoul. And since today's December 1st, it seemed as good of a time as any to put up a few festive decorations.

I was in a rush and shot the photos with my iPhone, but nonetheless they're here for posterity. I may re-shoot them later, but things are starting to get hectic. As for the apartment, it looks and feels extra cozy.

I love the Christmas season! For me, it really is the most wonderful time of the year. Cue Andy Williams: andy_williams_version^.

^thanks, DS, for prompting tonight's post title + song reference!

Desk Standing

2011-11-30T21:05:00.000+09:00

I did it!

It took me a full class to work up the nerve, but by my second one today, I was able to infuse some Dead Poets Society desk standing into my final lecture.

Must say, it was awesome, and it definitely made an impression.

On a side note, I got a lump in my throat while saying goodbye to the students in that class but fortunately was able to suppress the sadness. Barely.

Brow Horror

2011-11-29T21:14:00.000+09:00

A picture may say 1,000 words but not necessarily the ones you're intending.

Upon recommendation from a trustworthy source, I set off this morning to get my eyebrows shaped. Armed with two photos (depicting different angles of the same model), I walked into my appointment at the Benefit Brow Bar in Lotte Department Store, Star City. Although the brow specialist spoke limited English, I figured I was in good hands.

Very clear photos + a solid recommendation = guaranteed success, right?

Wrong.

Wrong, wrong, WRONG.

During the procedure, my eyes were closed. Once finished, the specialist proudly handed me a mirror to see the results.

Shock, confusion, and horror ensued, followed by outrage.

Ten hours later, I'm still feeling all of the above emotions to varying degrees. However, some positives came out of the experience, and I'm trying to focus on them:

Key general lesson: assume nothing, particularly when it comes to other people interacting with your face.
Key beauty lesson: photos only work in conjunction with mutually understood verbal communication.
Key spiritual lesson: to paraphrase Tim Keller, a test to determine what we idolize or desire too strongly is to pinpoint the thing that would make us enraged/inconsolable/sick with fear if we lost it... so I think I've answered that question, and it's clear what desire I need to keep in check.

Additionally, JB and BD were unbelievably effective in helping me calm down. (JB: truly one of your shining moments; you got me laughing in short order + made me feel so loved. BD: your empathy + fact-finding mission in search of re-growth tips helped tremendously! Ditto on making me feel super loved.)

In the days ahead, I'll be searching for miracle-producing eyebrow pencils, shadows, and tools. Readers, your suggestions are always welcome.

Choco Pies

2011-11-28T19:00:00.001+09:00

Oh, choco pies! How you confound me.

How can something so indisputably artificial-tasting still maintain an allure? Is it your new packaging which appeals to the American patriot in me?

The cashier at E-mart smiled as she rang up the five boxes I purchased tonight (total pie quantity: 120). Wonder if she thought I was planning to eat them all?

Hopefully I won't be eating any of them. My final lecture for each of my classes is coming up later this week, and I thought I'd go out with a sweet bang. Depending on whether I can work up the nerve, I may throw in a little Dead Poets Society desk-standing, too.

1, 2, 3, Kimchi!

2011-11-27T20:16:00.000+09:00

It's a universal practice that when taking photos over here, one must flash the kimchi sign.

What's that, you ask? Westerners know it as the peace or victory sign, but in Korea it's something else. I've heard it means cute or kimchi , but whatever the case, it's ubiquitous. Kids learn it at a young age, and the practice continues long into adulthood.

These pictures, snapped furtively by yours truly, illustrate the custom.

Step 1: Getting into Position

Step 2: Flashing the Sign

the little guy on the right will catch on soon enough...

Giving Thanks

2011-11-25T15:03:00.000+09:00

Sing and make music from your heart to the Lord, always giving thanks to God the Father for everything, in the name of our Lord Jesus Christ. -Ephesians 5:19-20

Happy Thanksgiving 2011!

Shock and Awe

2011-11-24T19:59:00.000+09:00

Each week I teach the same English lesson to five different class sections, and I've grown accustomed to anticipating how students will respond to my questions. However, yesterday I was nearly knocked to the floor.

The topic was advice, and I asked the students who they turn to when they need recommendations or help. Predictably they mentioned friends, parents, professors...

When I posed the question to one particular student, he said God. This both surprised and pleased me, and I pressed for more details. His reply: I ask Him for guidance on how I should live and what to do with my life.

Wow. I was so impressed -not only by his answer but by his courage in saying something that was outside the realm of group-think (those of you who teach English in Korea know what I'm talking about...).

It was a shocking moment, as well as one of the most awe-inspiring of my teaching career.

Inspiration

2011-11-23T21:25:00.000+09:00

One of my personal, modern-day heroes is David Batstone. David works tirelessly to raise awareness about human trafficking and to promote the re-abolition of slavery. He is the founder of Not For Sale, a movement that is dear to my heart^.

When David mentions someone who inspires him, I take note. Yesterday he shared this quote from a fellow NFS board member:

I used to be afraid I wouldn't make enough money; but I'm more afraid now that I won't make enough impact.

-Bob Goff, corporate attorney (who now spends 90% of his time fighting trafficking in Uganda)

Coupled with one of my favorite Bible passages, I've got some powerful inspiration to propel me in the days and months ahead as I embark on this next chapter:

For it is by grace you have been saved, through faith -and this not from yourselves, it is the gift of God- not by works, so that no one can boast. For we are God's workmanship, created in Christ Jesus to do good works, which God prepared in advance for us to do. -Ephesians 2:8-10

^http://www.notforsalecampaign.org/

Jun in Winter

2011-11-22T22:20:00.000+09:00

Jun is a man I met recently. He lives in Seoul. Seoul Station, to be precise.

Last Sunday, TM and I met Jun during our weekly outreach at the station. We had prayed that God would lead us to someone who spoke Korean and who could be a liaison for us as we worked to better serve the homeless community. Enter Jun.

Jun was personable and spoke good English. From him we learned that there are about 200 people living at the station. Many are alcoholics. They need nutritious food. He requested milk and ham + cheese sandwiches. We agreed to meet the following Sunday at 11am.

This past Sunday, BD + BD and I arrived at the station, toting milk and sandwiches. We prayed that Jun would be there, at the designated meeting spot. He was.

Jun walked with us around the area, introducing us to his friends as we distributed the food. At one point, he led us to an underground thoroughfare that reeked of urine. It was especially chilly there, like a wind tunnel, and I counted at least a dozen people huddled under blankets.

Desperately wanting to do something more, I gave Jun my bright blue scarf to wrap around his thin frame. I knew my gloves were too small and girly for him, so I said I'd bring him a pair next Sunday.

Today, while walking to and from work, my own hands were cold even though I had on gloves, a thick down jacket, plus a warm scarf. And I thought of Jun.

How will he get through tonight or any other night?

How does anyone living on the streets survive a Seoul winter?

Is not this the kind of fasting I have chosen: to loose the chains of injustice and untie the cords of the yoke, to set the oppressed free and break every yoke?

Is it not to share your food with the hungry and to provide the poor wanderer with shelter— when you see the naked, to clothe them, and not to turn away from your own flesh and blood? -Isaiah 58:6-7

(If you'd like to help or learn more information, please drop me a line through the comments section.)

Marking Time

2011-11-21T20:39:00.000+09:00

There are various ways to mark time and seasons. For starters, there's the conventional go-by-the-calendar approach. This is especially effective when looking ahead and counting down to an important, highly-anticipated event (28 days, for example).

When it comes to seasons, however, I think you've got to go by the what-clothes-are-realistic-for-today? method. By this measure, it's now winter in Seoul.

My winter jacket came out of storage today. Have a feeling I'll be keeping it close during the next four weeks.

Shot Me

2011-11-20T08:32:00.000+09:00

Spotted near Anguk Station:

Bangsan Market

2011-11-19T21:04:00.000+09:00

Bangsan Market is a baking depot in the heart of downtown. Just steps away from Cheonghyecheon awaits a haven for bakers. It's probably a very good thing that I only learned about it recently...

BD led a group of us on a tour of the market today. We visited over a dozen stores, but word has it there are well over 100. Products range from ovens, mixers, bowls, and cookie cutters, to ingredients including vanilla extract, chocolate chips, flour, and powdered sugar (though sadly no almond extract). There are also lots of cellophane bags, ribbons, and labels for wrapping up your baked goods. And for those into soap making, there are plenty of related products to be found.

Bake, eat, and be merry!

Museum of Chicken Art

2011-11-18T22:31:00.000+09:00

At last I can now say I've visited Seoul's Museum of Chicken Art!

HG and I had long been curious to know if it was a museum full of art created by chickens or inspired by them. Turns out it's the latter.

Located in Bukchon, this museum is certainly interesting, particularly if you've got an affection for these fowl creatures. But even if you don't, it's still illuminating. For example, did you know that chickens are a symbol of fertility, wealth, fame, and a successful career?

There are also five virtues of The Chicken (taken verbatim from the museum brochure):

Intelligence: the traditional hat given to government appointed high ranking official was named after the rooster's crest
Strength: the fierce and sharp talons of the rooster
Courage: the rooster fight without any fear with its foes
Heartedness: the announcing cries the rooster makes when it finds food
Trust: the rooster always tell of the morning whatever circumstances

Admission: 3,000 won

Open: 10am - 6pm (closed Mondays and holidays)

Star of Wonder

2011-11-17T11:27:00.000+09:00

Over the weekend while in Myeongdong, I snapped a photo of the Christmas tree in front of Lotte Department Store. It caught my eye for two reasons:

Christmas decorations are going up much earlier this year than in the previous two.
The star of David -initially I chuckled at seeing it atop the tree, but then I got to thinking... why not?! After all, Jesus was born to Jewish parents. Makes sense!

Mary Kay

2011-11-16T11:22:00.000+09:00

Part of what makes living in Seoul so fascinating is the never-ending stream of random moments. So, I can be out jogging in my neighborhood which is chock-full of Korean shops and restaurants and then pass by a Mary Kay store. Of course!

For those who'd like to stock up on Mary Kay products a little closer to home, contact my cousin Melissa in CA; she'll help you out:

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Melissa-Emmons-Mary-Kay-Independent-Beauty-Constulant/152273644867376

Earmuffs

2011-11-15T20:56:00.000+09:00

While strolling through Hongdae last weekend, AS and I spotted the craziest earmuffs. I asked her to take a pic so I could share the moment with you.

Am I crazy for seriously contemplating buying a pair?

Coffee + ...?!

2011-11-14T21:06:00.000+09:00

Coffee + chocolate.

Or a bagel, doughnut, croissant...

But a hotdog?

Lantern Festival 2011

2011-11-13T22:23:00.000+09:00

Having skipped last year's lantern festival, I was ready to return this year (which, incidentally, means two years have passed since I was initially there... wow.)

Last night was jam-packed, so I went back again today. Something about Cheonggyecheon just makes lantern-viewing (or anything, really) extra fun.

From last night:

Happy + Joyful

2011-11-12T21:22:00.001+09:00

Happy and joyful all year round.

What a lovely motto.

Oriental Medicine

2011-11-11T21:34:00.001+09:00

My life in Korea is so random!

After listening to me gripe about a backache this afternoon, a colleague mentioned a nearby place to get acupuncture. With nothing to lose, I set out on a mini-adventure. I say that because I wasn't exactly sure where I was going, but ultimately I arrived.

The clinic looked clean and fairly modern... so far, so good. I had my blood pressure taken, and then it was time to take off my socks + shoes. The doctor asked me to hold onto a metal grip while he used a device to measure 12 different points on my wrists and feet. He then did some sort of analysis of my general health.

Afterward, I had a brief meeting with the head doctor -the one whose name is on the clinic door. He was a friendly man who spoke a little English, and he suggested 5 days of acupuncture. Fine.

First, the acupuncture: I counted about a dozen needles as they went into my back; nothing too surprising. And then things got interesting.

Next up: Moxa^. I had no idea what to expect or what was happening, but when the doctor finished setting up the contraption, I asked him to snap a photo with my camera. Upon looking at the photo I realized that a small fire was burning over my back, supported by a few needles and special paper (his words). Wow. I don't know if I've ever been more still in my life, especially after he disappeared for 10 minutes.

After moxa, I had something like electrotherapy. No idea what the technical term is. I was hooked up to a machine, and 10 different currents were pulsating around my back for 15 minutes. Part of the time it actually felt like human hands were massaging the knot area, but it was only the machine.

Altogether a very random and interesting adventure. I've got an appointment tomorrow morning for session 2.

^ http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moxibustion

Ultimate Pepero Day

2011-11-11T20:37:00.001+09:00

11.11.11

While you Spinal Tap fans are celebrating Nigel Tufnel Day, it's the ultimate in pepero frenzy over here. (How often do the numbers line up like this? Won't happen again until 2111.)

This is my 3rd Pepero Day since arriving in Korea. Maybe I'm more aware now, but it seems to be growing in commercialization. It's not just about the sticks anymore, as evidenced by photos I snapped earlier this evening at E-Mart, Tous Les Jours, and Bandi and Luni.

So many ways to let someone know you: love them/think they're cute/want to go out/appreciate their friendship...

Which would woo you?

Suneung Day

2011-11-10T21:27:00.000+09:00

Imagine a day in your country where things literally come to a halt on an annual basis. Today was such a day in Korea.

Suneung is the Korean version of the SAT. Around here, it's commonly thought to be The Test that determines one's entire future -first one's university options, then job opportunities, and finally marriage partner.

I had no idea how serious the ramifications of the test were. No wonder the country comes to a grinding halt as high school seniors sit for the exam:

the stock market opens later
planes are grounded
police are everywhere -on hand to drive students who are running late to test centers
motorists are asked to refrain from honking
bakeries and confectionery shops prepare special good-luck packages
churches and temples are flooded with parents praying their kids will achieve a high score -one worthy of entrance into the elite 3: Seoul National, Korea, and Yonsei (a.k.a. the SKY universities)

This is an education-obsessed environment, and the pressure on these students to perform follows them from elementary school throughout their educational experience. It is relentless and something I witness every day.

Buckchon Craft Festival

2011-11-09T21:17:00.000+09:00

Over the weekend while I was out snapping photos, I literally stumbled upon the Annual Buckchon Traditional Craft Festival (I was en route to the Chicken Art Museum which I've been curious to check out and now still haven't visited!).

It was really cool to see the craftsmen and women showing off their work and taking pride in it, too. I've noticed that aside from traditional food dishes, there doesn't seem to be a whole lot of pride in or promotion of other domestically-produced things. For example, my friends and I love to visit Insadong but lament the fact that most items for sale are made in China.

Korea, embrace your artisans and cultivate their talent!

E-mart's Bold Claim

2011-11-08T21:28:00.000+09:00

I know in America we're accustomed to hearing companies proclaim Satisfaction Guaranteed, but for some reason seeing E-mart's twist on the verbiage made me laugh.

Foliage Encore

2011-11-07T21:23:00.000+09:00

On Saturday, those in Seoul were treated to a stunning day. Not only was the weather unseasonably warm, we also enjoyed blue skies which seemed to amplify the marvelous fall foliage.

Streets everywhere were flooded with people snapping photos and posing next to glorious trees. In the afternoon, I headed out to take a few myself and from Kondae, wound up in Samcheongdong and at Changdeokgung (along with numerous other people).

Some highlights, beginning with Konkuk's campus:

In Samcheongdong:

At Changdeokgung:

Empowering Entrepreneurs

2011-11-06T21:46:00.000+09:00

Ever feel like political gridlock is preventing meaningful change in the lives of those most in need?

Want to make a significant impact right now?

World Vision has a micro-lending program that enables you to empower entrepreneurs in developing countries. For as little as $25/month, you can make a major difference by helping to fund a small loan and lift a hardworking, impoverished entrepreneur out of poverty.

After reading their business ideas online, you can select your first entrepreneur(s) based on their country, gender, or business sector. Once the entrepreneur repays the loan, your initial tax-deductible contribution is invested into a new loan for another entrepreneur.

Ready to get started -or at least learn more about World Vision's MicroMonthly? Click here: http://www.worldvisionmicro.org/micromonthly

Baseball Invitation

2011-11-05T10:44:00.000+09:00

Earlier this week, after telling my students I'd cheered for Seouldae at the American football championship game last Sunday, I got an invitation to a Konkuk baseball game.

Yesterday I attended the game which was a real treat as two of my favorite students were playing. In fact, Konkuk has several intramural teams, and I'd actually taught players from the rival team. But ya cheer for the one that brought you, right?

Go, KulBase!

Visual Effects

2011-11-04T23:04:00.000+09:00

No Hollywood visual effects company does better work than the Creator Himself. Want proof? I snapped these today while strolling around campus.

For since the creation of the world God’s invisible qualities—his eternal power and divine nature—have been clearly seen, being understood from what has been made, so that people are without excuse. -Romans 1:20

Carb Secret

2011-11-03T21:38:00.001+09:00

For the first time in my adult life I'm eating healthier than I could've imagined. I've got more energy, and I feel terrific. A few people have begun to notice a difference, and inevitably a discussion ensues as to what's causing these changes.

So I fess up about the carb-cutting (no bread, rice, pasta, etc.) and mention all the veggies and proteins I've replaced them with. They get it, and we move on (funny student anecdotes, Occupy Wall Street, fan death...).

One colleague got me today with a sign left at my desk (thanks, DH!):

Coffee Talk

2011-11-02T21:50:00.001+09:00

My day got off to a grand start thanks to a morning rendezvous with AS at our local Starbucks.

Ain't it the truth that one of life's greatest joys is enjoying a cup of coffee with a good friend? And when it's Christmas Blend time at Starbucks, the joy is extra-sweet.

One of the most rewarding aspects of moving to Seoul has been the opportunity to become friends with some remarkable individuals who possess a great spirit of adventure. Not only do we talk about the usual things friends discuss, but we also get to bond over anecdotes from our zany personal stories known as My Life in Korea.

Of course, the flip side is that eventually people move away, move back...

You'd think with all the moving I did as a child and throughout my adult life I'd be used to the long goodbye -you know, when one or both parties are gearing up for a move and they're trying to pack in as much time together beforehand. It doesn't get easier though. It does, however, make me ever-aware of Time's fleetingness and motivates me to make the most of each day's opportunities.

(Dedicated to AS. Sure gonna miss you! I already do, and you haven't even left yet.)

Testimonial

2011-11-01T22:12:00.000+09:00

The opportunity to share part of my testimony arose so naturally in class this evening, I couldn't pass it up.

We were discussing life and death situations, both natural and man-made, and the reading from our textbook was focused specifically on the events of September 11. Although the students were barely old enough to remember that day, each recalled something specific.

When it was my turn to share, they had many questions which ultimately came down to how I reacted to the tragedy and uncertainty that were unfolding around me. I mentioned that while it was indeed an unusual day, as a Christian I felt a supernatural peace and security.

They listened attentively -never more so, in fact- and now I'm wondering which parts, if any, sank in.

Do not be anxious about anything, but in every situation, by prayer and petition, with thanksgiving, present your requests to God. And the peace of God, which transcends all understanding, will guard your hearts and your minds in Christ Jesus. -Philippians 4:6-7

Beer Hunter

2011-10-31T18:46:00.000+09:00

Beer Hunter is a chain of pubs around town. While I've yet to check one out, their sign has gotten my attention.

Having lived in Korea for 2+ years now, I tend to laugh when I see or hear the words hunter or hunting. My students use the term hunting to talk about a popular college activity: heading to bars in search of women.

American Football

2011-10-30T20:05:00.000+09:00

What a glorious day for football!

Thanks to an invitation from HG, I got to experience American football right here in Seoul. This afternoon we watched Seoul National University take on Hankuk University of Foreign Studies as the teams competed for the championship title.

Despite the home-field advantage, and our enthusiastic cheering (Seouldae, Touchdown!), SNU ultimately lost. However, it was super fun to be a spectator and to hear familiar football expressions mixed with lots of Korean. Plus the sideline activities were highly entertaining as well.

Karl in Korea

2011-10-29T21:16:00.000+09:00

Thanks to a tip from a friend, I caught a recently-opened exhibition featuring the photography of Karl Lagerfeld. While the fashion legend was not physically on hand, his thumbprint was on everything. From the photos themselves to how they were displayed, it was evident that things were exactly as Karl would have them.

Check out Karl Lagerfeld: Work in Progress now at the Daelim Contemporary Museum of Art through March 18, 2012. Tickets: 5,000 won.

Strawberry Curlers

2011-10-27T22:03:00.000+09:00

Having grown up with pink sponge curlers (you know the drill: sleeping in them on Saturday nights, ready for church on Sunday), I have a visceral reaction when I see pink rollers -probably from bad memories of sleepless nights and those wild + crazy Miss Piggy curls.

However, spongy strawberry curlers... totally different effect!

Which would you prefer?

Caffe Bene Christmas

2011-10-26T20:56:00.001+09:00

While running errands this morning, I caught sight of some festive decorations at Caffe Bene^. Apparently I'm not the only one getting excited about Christmas.

^A word on Caffe Bene: I really like this Korean chain of coffee shops. Decent coffee and gelato, waffles, pleasant ambiance -what's not to love?

This sign posted out front of a local shop made me smile. Can you guess why?

October Christmas

2011-10-25T20:59:00.002+09:00

To celebrate Autumn, I'm hosting a harvest party this weekend, and yet I caught myself daydreaming about Christmas a few times today. I even initiated a discussion in class on favorite holidays and got everyone talking about their Christmas traditions.

Many of you know that I listen to Christmas carols year-round, but usually I play them on low so as to avoid embarrassment and awkward encounters with my neighbors. This evening, however, I cranked them up.

Two months from today -can't wait! But really, why not get excited about it every day?

But the angel said to them, "Do not be afraid. I bring you good news of great joy that will be for all the people. Today in the town of David a Savior has been born to you; He is Christ the Lord." -Luke 2:10-11

Konkuk Fall

2011-10-24T21:12:00.000+09:00

Holy, holy, holy is the Lord Almighty; the whole earth is full of His glory. -Isaiah 6:3

I'll never tire of the colorful miracles of Fall. On campus, the trees are turning, leaves are falling, and everything looks dazzling. I am amazed by the diversity of color and the richness of hues. My photos don't do the scene justice, but I'm posting them nonetheless for posterity and to give you a glimpse -especially those of you with Mediterranean climate (ahem, SoCal readers!).

Sister Sunday

2011-10-23T22:20:00.000+09:00

I feel incredibly fortunate for all the sister time I experienced today.

This morning I was able to speak with both of my biological sisters thanks to advances in technology (hello, Skype and amazing Korean cellphone networks!). Not a day goes by when I don't deeply miss the two of them, so quality talk time is a major event.

This afternoon I spent time with women who have become like sisters to me. Not only do we possess a common faith, we've also bonded over other shared interests -books, food, and travel to name a few.

God gets all the credit. He is so personal and faithful -bringing people into our lives who add laughter, joy, love, and comfort.

Who has He brought to you?

Summarizing The Hole

2011-10-22T23:40:00.000+09:00

Let my heart be broken by the things that break the heart of God. -Bob Pierce, founder of World Vision

To summarize the most inspiring book I've read this year -heck, in the last five years- is challenging; there are motivational morsels springing from every page. Yet The Hole in Our Gospel by Richard Stearns is a compelling call to action, and so, having just finished the book, I'll share some particularly thought-provoking quotes and excerpts:

We must pray constantly that God will soften our hearts so we can see the world the way He sees it. -Richard Stearns, President of World Vision U.S., 1998 - present

Don't fail to do something just because you can't do everything. -B. Pierce

Confronted with an overwhelming problem, Jesus did not ask the disciples to do the impossible; He asked only for them to bring to Him what they had. He then multiplied the small offering and used it to do the impossible. The principle here is so very important for those who are overwhelmed with the immensity of human suffering and need in our world: God never asks us to give what we do not have... But He cannot use what we will not give. -R. Stearns (on the miracle of the loaves and fishes which appears in all four gospels)

Imagine what would have happened in your lives if there had been no connection whatsoever between how hard you worked and the results you got, because that is exactly the situation faced by the more than 1 billion people who live on less than a dollar a day. The connection between how hard they work and the result they will get has been broken. -President Bill Clinton

That bread which you keep belongs to the hungry; that coat which you preserve in your wardrobe, to the naked; those shoes which are rotting in your possession, to the shoeless; that gold which you have hidden in the ground, to the needy. Wherefore, as often as you are able to help others, and refuse, so often did you do them wrong. -Augustine

My faith demands -this is not optional- my faith demands that I do whatever I can, wherever I am, whenever I can, for as long as I can with whatever I have to try to make a difference. -President Jimmy Carter

The Lord Jesus told us to be the world's salt and light. If therefore darkness and rottenness abound, it is largely our fault and we must accept the blame. -Reverend John Stott

If the Christian community is truly to be salt and light in a dark world, we will only succeed by embracing the whole gospel. Faith and works must be put back together again. -R. Stearns

When we have enough cash, food, and possessions, we can become self-reliant. Therefore, money is not seen by God as a benign and neutral thing. Money is power, and power competes with God for supremacy in our lives. -R. Stearns

In the end, God simply calls you to be faithful to the things He has given you to do. -R. Stearns

For more information, check out: http://www.theholeinourgospel.com/

American Icons

2011-10-21T21:28:00.000+09:00

Can you spot the references to American pop-culture icons on this sign? I counted three.

Would love to know what's being promoted.

Acupunctured!

2011-10-20T20:46:00.000+09:00

At last, I've tried acupuncture!

It certainly wasn't on my to-do list this morning. But that's the thing about life in Korea... every day is an opportunity for a random twist and a brand new adventure.

After finishing my grading this morning, I set off to meet a dear friend for some Seoul sightseeing. She'd been talking up the Nam San Traditional Folk Village which I'd yet to visit, so we decided to head there. Wouldn't you know that we just happened to stumble upon a traditional medicine exhibit which, as part of a month-long promotion, is offering various services to foreigners, all for free!

I had my blood pressure taken (normal), my pulse examined (thin and weak; low energy; did you sleep poorly last night? -I was surprised at how accurate their assessment was!), and then finally: cosmetic acupuncture. On my face. Wow.

I am so skittish around needles and blood of any kind, but I managed to hold up pretty well; it helped that I was lying down on a cot. Fifteen minutes and 30 needles later, my face did feel rejuvenated. Can it be that I'm already hooked?

Good thing the promotion lasts for a few more weeks. Chances are I'll return for another complimentary session.

Sock Drive

2011-10-19T20:44:00.000+09:00

...give to the poor and you will have treasure in heaven. -Mark 10:21b

Inspired by the accounts we read in The Irresistible Revolution and The Hole in Our Gospel (not to mention Jesus's own example and teachings), some friends and I have been contemplating ways to personally reach out to the homeless community in Seoul.

Two weeks ago we began our now-weekly treks to Seoul Station where we visit with people and share food, clothes, and toiletries with them. We're learning as we're going. Fortunately one person in our group speaks Korean, and through her conversations with various individuals, we've gathered data on how we can better serve this community.

Our two previous visits were a little ad hoc, but since then, we've decided to focus each week on a theme. Right now we're collecting socks for our next visit (incidentally, the E-Mart by my place is having great deals on footwear; we got 19 pairs of socks for 28,000 won/$25):

In the coming weeks, we're focusing on:

gloves
scarves
shoes
coats + sweaters

Wanted to get the word out there. If you'd like to join us or contribute in any way, drop me a line through the comments section, and I'll be in touch.

The Joy of Midterms

2011-10-18T19:55:00.000+09:00

What a difference a year can make!

We're in the midst of midterms, and I love it! Last year around this time I was stressed about creating exams. This year I'm over that stress and enjoying the flow that comes with a week of grading + no lesson planning. Bliss for me, not so much for the students.

Speaking of students, I've heard some pretty astounding excuses from a few as to why they've missed classes recently. I'm starting to feel like Ed Rooney in Ferris Bueller's Day Off, and while I don't verbalize his more memorable lines, they're playing in my inner monologue:

Ed Rooney: Ed Rooney.
Cameron: [disguising voice as George Peterson] Ed. This is George Peterson.
Ed Rooney: How are you today, sir?
Cameron: [voice disguised] Well, we've had a bit of bad luck this morning as you may have heard.
Ed Rooney: Yeah I heard, and man, I'm all broken up, boy, what a blow.
Cameron: [disguised] Yeah. Yeah. Well, uh, it's been a tough morning and we got a lot of family business to take care of, so if you wouldn't mind excusing Sloane, I'd appreciate it.
Ed Rooney: Uh, yeah, sure, no I'd be happy to, yeah you, uh, you you just produce a corpse, and uh, I'll release Sloane. I wanna see this dead grandmother first hand.
Grace: Ed?
Ed Rooney: It's alright, Grace, it's Ferris Bueller the little twerp. I'm gonna set a trap and let him fall right in it.
Grace: Ooh!
Cameron: [disguised] I'm sorry, Ed, did you say you wanted to see a body?
Ed Rooney: Yeah, that's right, just, uh, roll her old bones on over here, and I'll dig up your daughter. You know that's school policy.

High Street Market

2011-10-17T19:55:00.000+09:00

Gotta give a shout-out to High Street Market in Itaewon. It opened fairly recently and has quickly become a haven for foreigners. The store boasts its own bakery where you can actually buy, and sample, bread that tastes like real bread with -bonus!- authentic bread consistency, too.

The store has a deli section as well as several dry-food bins where you can buy things like black beans, lentils, and granola. It also has a decent wine section which includes baskets full of damaged label bottles that are greatly reduced in price.

I won't mention what I go there for lest my staple items sell out before my next visit. But let's just say that if you've got cravings, chances are high that High Street Market's got you covered.

Light Facing

2011-10-16T20:18:00.002+09:00

I saw that wisdom is better than folly, just as light is better than darkness. -Ecclesiastes 2:13

My houseplants reminded me of an important principle today.

I admit, I'm not the most attentive caregiver to my plants. I often forget to water them, and I rarely prune or talk to them (a little humor there, folks). Tonight, though, I was curious about what had happened to their bright pink blooms which had prompted me to buy them in the first place. From my vantage point, all the flowers had disappeared.

Upon closer inspection I realized that all the blooms were on the side of the plants which faced out the window -a window which has tons of light stream through it every day. Aha! So, in botanical matters as well as in spiritual, facing the Light makes a profound difference^.

I did a quick search on BibleGateway.com looking for verses about light. Did you know that there are at least 204 Scripture references to light? Two of my favorites:

You, Lord, are my lamp; the Lord turns my darkness into light. -2 Samuel 22:29

Who among you fears the Lord and obeys the word of His servant? Let the one who walks in the dark, who has no light, trust in the name of the Lord and rely on their God. -Isaiah 50:10

And, of course, Jesus referred to Himself as the Light of the world:

I am the light of the world. Whoever follows me will not walk in darkness, but will have the light of life. -John 8:12

I love how God can use nature to point us toward Him, deepen our understanding, and enrich our faith!

^The plant on the left looked like this after I turned it around:

...while the one on the right looked like this before I turned it around:

Luxury Yogurt

2011-10-15T14:35:00.000+09:00

Snow Spoon has always intrigued me with its enchanting name, and yesterday while running errands in Hongdae, I finally checked it out.

The shop brands itself as a purveyor of Luxury Yogurt, and indeed the place feels quite posh. With its clean, white furnishings and crystal chandeliers, it differentiates itself from most other stores or cafes in town. And, in the event you missed these clues, the prices signal luxury, too.

Fortunately the quality of Snow Spoon's product offering is high. I tried the plain (tart) and chocolate flavors, and both were perfectly rich and sufficiently creamy. I skipped the toppings and the side dishes (pizza? pasta??), but their darling yogurt sandwiches (made with macaron-like cookies) were hard to pass up. Next time...

Sweet experience overall. Made me miss California's Yogurtland.

Toilet Seat

2011-10-14T20:07:00.001+09:00

Gotta love the creative minds in Hongdae. Oddly enough, although the decor caught my eye, I wasn't motivated to eat at this galbi restaurant.

Next time you're tempted to throw out a broken toilet, why not move it into your dining room?

The Hole

2011-10-13T21:10:00.000+09:00

I'm grateful to my parents for many things, not least of which is their introducing me to the joy of reading at a very early age. My love for books has grown immeasurably since.

And as a resident of Seoul, I'm grateful for free access to books in English thanks to the awesome book-exchange I've got going with some friends (side note: What the Book? in Itaewon is a haven for English-speaking bibliophiles -a huge bookstore with hundreds of titles and a terrific staff who's willing to order books that aren't in stock.).

I've just begun reading The Hole in Our Gospel. Using autobiographical anecdotes, Richard Stearns discusses the hole that Christians have in their lives, an emptiness that stems from ignoring the poor. He speaks from experience having gone from being CEO of Lenox, Inc. to heading up World Vision. I'm only 25 pages in and already am inspired by his story.

I know this is going to be one of those soul-jolting, life-changing books -like The Irresistible Revolution- and I'm excited about the influences it'll have on my lifestyle and heart.

Medicinal Herb Festival

2011-10-12T21:27:00.000+09:00

Last weekend, I had the chance to check out Seoul's annual Medicinal Herb Festival in Jegi-dong. It was a memorable experience.

The area is home to hundreds of herb shops, making it one of the more fragrant neighborhoods in town. I saw more ginseng in various forms than I've ever encountered and watched as vendors sliced and diced herbs for retail purposes. Oh, and it wouldn't be a Korean festival without the sound of samulnori drums.

However, the most memorable part was visiting Yangnyeongsi -Seoul's Herb Medicine Museum. My friend and I were treated to a 2-hour tour of the museum with our own personal guide, an older Korean woman with the knowledge base of a college course textbook. Her English was astounding, and we learned so much.

Key takeaways:

until fairly recently (50 years ago), scraping one's unwashed scalp with acupuncture needles was a method for disinfecting them.
many different animals, including deer, frogs, and bears, were used to make traditional medicines; this practice is now illegal, though still occurring in parts of Asia.
since my body temp runs hot, I need to avoid white ginseng and stick to red or black.
based on self-reported answers to a quiz, I was diagnosed Soyangin (healthy stomach, weak kidneys; aggressive and fun) and Taeyangin (strong lungs, weak liver; smart, initiative, masculine, impatient, and stubborn).

on cup: "Hope only happens to the person who is hoping."

Waxing

2011-10-11T21:27:00.000+09:00

Been back in Korea for a week now. Probably ought to get back to chronicling the ol' Seoul adventure. There's still so much to discover and share.

After two years of residing in the R.o.K., I'm accustomed to frequently seeing peculiar things -peculiar by standards back home anyway, though par for the course here. With few exceptions, the things that fazed me in my newbie days -those first six months- don't really grab my attention anymore.

So when I'm prompted to whip out my camera while walking down the street, you know it's something special. Like this sign I saw over the weekend while in Itaewon:

Eye-catching? Check.

Memorable? Check.

Potential to tarnish teddy bear images forever? Check.

Shades of Hanoi, Part II

2011-10-10T19:07:00.000+09:00

Last batch of photos highlighting the contrasts of Hanoi:

The following were taken at the Temple of Literature, which served as Vietnam's oldest university (dating back to 1070):

Shades of Hanoi, Part I

2011-10-10T07:35:00.000+09:00

Various images to help capture the Hanoi experience:

Ho Kiem Lake

woman walking with live fish

entrance to the historic Metropole Hotel

laundry hanging

'spring roll' at legendary ice cream parlor, Fanny

the flag -a common sight

along the tracks

traditional music

Opera House

man on bike, reading

St. Joseph's Cathedral

La Badiane, Hanoi

2011-10-09T21:23:00.000+09:00

Another amazing dining experience during my Hanoi trip occurred at La Badiane -one of the city's top-ranked restaurants. This place had artfully-prepared, delicious dishes, impeccable service, and a relaxing ambiance. Its accolades are well-deserved.

My lunch, from the prix fixe menu (a bargain at $15):

Starter: Tomato Gazpacho

with feta, homemade bread crumbs + herbs

Main: Beef Carpaccio

prepared Tahitian style -finely diced red + green peppers, chives + pineapple; served with shoestring potatoes

Dessert: Chocolate Crepe

topped with chocolate sauce, strawberry puree + shaved almonds

Restaurant Interior

Restaurant Exterior

Green Tangerine, Hanoi

2011-10-08T20:09:00.000+09:00

One of the most perfect meals I've ever had was at Green Tangerine in Hanoi. In fact, the food, ambiance, and service were so extraordinary, I returned for dinner on my last night in town.

My favorite way to experience food at an exceptional restaurant is to sample several starters in lieu of a main dish. Of course, I always save room for dessert.

Starter 1: Tri-color, Tri-flavor Soup

onions cooked in red wine, young rice in coconut milk, and spicy dry beef in pho broth

Starter 2: Beef Carpaccio

beef marinated in balsamic vinegar mixed with red wine and red fruits, topped with fried Camembert and herbs

Starter 3: Fig Tempura

Fig tempura stuffed with goat cheese, bacon, nuts, and grapes presented on Vietnamese spices bread

Dessert: Meringue

meringue with passion fruit cream, topped with dark chocolate shavings

I cannot say enough good things about this restaurant. Both of my experiences there were highlights of my Hanoi visit. Moreover, it is virtually the only place in the Old Quarter where one can escape the city's chaos and actually relax.

Hanoi Up Close

2011-10-06T22:11:00.000+09:00

Some shots of Hanoi up close.

(entrance to the infamous Hanoi Hilton)

(note the Weasel blend)

Hanoi Overview

2011-10-05T21:34:00.000+09:00

Hanoi is difficult to encapsulate in a few words.

On the one hand it's chaos personified with the constant whir of motorbikes whizzing past -in all directions without any traffic signals (note: when crossing the street, pedestrians should not glance both ways and instead focus solely on looking ahead, walking at a constant pace so as to assist the passing motorists who are anticipating their every move).

On the other hand, people seem to live very simply. I observed thousands sitting on the ground just watching as others walked by. Some people played cards, while others (women) plucked grey hairs from a friend's head. But mostly, people just watched.

Hanoi is hardly the poster child for communism. Poverty is rampant and virtually inescapable. I saw numerous people digging through trash looking for scraps of anything (cans, straws, wire, plastic caps, etc.) that could be repurposed or sold.

And yet... there are pockets of luxury which seem freakishly out-of-place. I am embarrassed to admit that I sought out a few of these places to temporarily escape from the destitution which envelops Hanoi. The Metropole Hotel was like an oasis of calm in the midst of the chaos, and some of the most incredible meals I've had in my life were in the city's fine restaurants (more on that later).

If there's a principal takeaway from my brief experience in Hanoi it is this: my life is abundantly rich and not because of my own doing -through Providence alone I have more than I need; to hoard these resources would be unconscionable.

spot the rooster?

Hanoian Life

2011-10-04T21:16:00.000+09:00

After a whirlwind 72 hour trip to Hanoi, capped off with a red-eye flight back to Seoul, followed by a full day of teaching, I am at a relative loss for words on how to summarize my visit. So, while I head to sleep to collect my thoughts and catch up on much-needed rest, I'll leave you with some photos which offer a peek into Hanoian life.

Off to Hanoi

2011-09-30T15:21:00.000+09:00

In just a few hours my plane departs for Hanoi. This is a trip I've long been looking forward to, ever since I visited Ho Chi Minh back in 2005. While I'll only be away for three days, I plan to cover a lot of ground and snap loads of pics.

See you again early next week!

(Oh, and in the meantime, here's a shot of a recent Seoul sunset. We don't see many like this around here:)

HK TP

2011-09-28T22:52:00.000+09:00

Oh, yes I did!

As locals know, buying toilet paper is no small purchase in Korea, and it requires a certain level of commitment. Unlike in the States, it's rare to find four rolls to a package. Instead, there are usually 16 to 24 rolls bundled together. Thus, every few months you face the monumental decision of which pattern to buy. Very tricky.

Pattern options that I've passed over include dolphins, teddy bears, and pithy sayings. And I've learned one must be very careful to avoid the scented batches which are plentiful (unless you're into that thing).

Tonight, after two years in Korea, I broke down and went for Hello Kitty. It seems pretty natural. After all, Miss HK was probably my very first exposure to Asian culture, at least my earliest memory of it.

Have I crossed over...?

Sun Protection

2011-09-27T22:59:00.000+09:00

After two years of living here, I'm still amused by the sight of umbrellas on sunny days. My foreigner friends and I are always rolling up our sleeves and aiming to walk on the sunny side of the streets, while the locals head for the shade and tug on their long sleeves.

The best sun protection of all, however, is that embraced by the ajummas^. Ahhh, yes. These ladies really know how to stay protected. With their huge visors, wrap-around sunglasses, face masks, scarves, long sleeve shirts, tracksuit pants or walking shorts, and driving gloves, they ensure that less than 3% of their skin is exposed to direct sunlight. Believe me when I say that I'd love to snap some pics. However, up until now I've been hesitant because these women are assertive and tough. The photo below was taken from a far distance, but I'm posting it anyway to give you an idea.

^a post devoted to ajummas is in the works, but there's just so much to say -so many angles- that I'm still trying to edit my thoughts... stay tuned.

Martyrs Shrine

2011-09-26T21:19:00.001+09:00

Recently I had an opportunity to visit the Korean Martyrs Museum-Shrine located near Hapjoeng station. The Museum-Shrine was originally built in 1967 on land where thousands of Catholics were killed for their faith from 1866-1873.

According to the Archbishop of Seoul, the Shrine-Museum was established to "reawaken and renew the faith" of every visitor (you can read more about the Shrine-Museum here: korean_martyrs_museumshrine). Indeed, it is a powerfully moving and unique place to visit, particularly here in Seoul, as peace and a spirit of reverence pervade the grounds -difficult to come by in these parts.

The photos below depict the traditional 14 Stations of the Cross (as Catholic readers may know, not all of these traditional stations have clear biblical foundation). During our visit, I learned that in 1991, Pope John Paul II introduced a new version of the Stations based entirely on Scripture (which you can learn more about here: Scriptural Stations).

As my friend wisely noted, there really ought to be a 15th Station as Jesus did not remain in the grave but rather was resurrected. His resurrection is in fact the historical basis for the faith and hope of Christians, myself included.

Shaken + Moved

2011-09-25T23:12:00.001+09:00

Calcuttas are everywhere if only we have eyes to see. Find your Calcutta. -Mother Teresa

We are not simply to bandage the wounds of victims beneath the wheels of injustice, but we are to drive a spoke into the wheel itself. -Dietrich Bonhoeffer

When was the last time you read something that really shook you to your core? For me, that time would be tonight. I've started reading The Irresistible Revolution by Shane Claiborne, and it's felt like a swift kick in my gut -and heart.

Through the sharing of autobiographical nuggets, which he intertwines with quotes from St. Francis of Assisi, Mother Teresa, Gandhi, Dietrich Bonhoeffer, and Soren Kierkegaard (to name a handful), Claiborne presents a viable model of community that fits into neither Democrat nor Republican mold. Instead, he strives to demonstrate how to live out the Gospel as an ordinary radical [his term].

I'm more than half way through the book, feeling simultaneously convicted, frustrated, and inspired. Already I'd wholeheartedly encourage anyone lacking in motivation or sense of purpose to pick it up. But only if you're prepared to get shaken.

Garlic Galore

2011-09-24T20:27:00.000+09:00

Yesterday while walking through Bukchon Hanok Village, I noticed a pick-up truck overflowing with garlic. Just being next to it made me feel healthier.

I wanted to buy some garlic, but all I needed was a single bulb, not two dozen, which is apparently how this vendor prefers to sell his goods.

Feelin' Feelish

2011-09-23T23:43:00.000+09:00

This sign hanging up at the Konkuk subway station confounds me whenever I encounter it. The poster itself is difficult to read given the way the lighting hits the glass which encases it, but it's the wording that really trips me up.

Feelish.

Is that like a hybrid of feeling + foolish?

Or feel + English?

Or [your thoughts here]...?

Oh, Konglish, how you bewilder me!

Hairy Legs

2011-09-22T22:27:00.001+09:00

Recently I gave students an assignment to write about their friend who was least like them. The most memorable paper, written by a male student, went something like this (I wish I'd made a copy!):

My friend has hairy legs. I never thought I would have a friend whose legs were like a primitive man's. The first time I saw his legs, it was so shocking!

Days later, I'm still cracking up.

Umami Fest

2011-09-21T20:42:00.000+09:00

Tonight's dinner was a tribute to umami. An umami fest, if you will.

Prompted by the huge box of laver I brought home (a Chuseok gift, courtesy of my employer), I decided to jazz up my typical dinner of tofu and cucumbers and toss in some dried seaweed. Actually, what I really did was wrap the laver around cucumber slices and chunks of cooked tofu (seasoned with smoked sea salt + soy sauce). Messy but tasty!

I'll deal with the sodium overkill tomorrow.

Raw Meat

2011-09-20T22:58:00.000+09:00

Like other foreigners who have relocated to Korea, I've noticed that there's something very different in how restaurants promote their meat dishes. Big outdoor banners featuring photos of raw meat are ubiquitous around here. I try to block them out of my mind, but the truth is, they're everywhere.

Unless meat is meant to be served raw (e.g. sashimi), it just doesn't look the least bit appetizing to view it in its uncooked state... does it?

Produce Shopping

2011-09-19T20:52:00.000+09:00

Not far from my apartment is a market which sells incredibly cheap produce, in addition to other grocery staples. Tonight as I was passing through, I didn't have my camera with me; these photos shot with my iPhone don't do much justice to the place, but at least you can get an idea.

The market is open everyday from 9am - 9pm. I've visited it before and once again found myself marveling at all the activity that takes place in this most random of shopping venues. Random in that it's not easy to find -wedged between rows of apartments off the main thoroughfare- and there's always a sensory-overload experience awaiting -bikes darting around shoppers, scooters whizzing by, nuts roasting in an old-fashioned contraption, crabs for sale flopping on the ground, and vendors calling out their daily specials.

If you happen to be fortunate enough to stumble upon this place, you'll be glad you did. And afterward you'll probably feel pangs of guilt the next time you pay exorbitant prices buying produce from anywhere else (ahem, E-Mart!).

730 Days = 2 Years

2011-09-18T21:16:00.002+09:00

Today marks my two-year anniversary of living in Seoul. In thinking about what to post to commemorate this occasion, I must say that Time has a funny way of playing tricks.

In many regards the days have flown by, but from other angles it's been the exact opposite.

My mind keeps track of so many events -both past and future- and I was fully aware that this 2nd anniversary was approaching. I guess I thought the right words would come to me just in time, and afterward I'd know exactly how I'd want to sum up two years. Unfortunately, that hasn't happened. It's as though I've been saying to myself: Be reflective! and now I can't.

A few things to consider:

I may not have learned how to read or speak Korean (yet!), but for every day I've been here, I've gleaned an insight about Korean culture.

Paper is the traditional (UK) gift for 2nd anniversaries (wedding anniversaries, but why not apply it to this situation...?). So, I'm thinking about the possibility of taking the last two years of observations and compiling a book. Any interested publishers out there?

As always, I'm grateful for you -an audience that's here willingly and provides meaningful interaction, which ultimately motivates me to continue learning and writing.

Thank You.

Benched!

2011-09-16T19:48:00.000+09:00

Isn't this one of the kookiest, most fun benches you've ever seen? Found it today as I was walking through Bukchon-dong. Love it!

Romance Optional

2011-09-15T20:14:00.000+09:00

In class this week, we've been focusing on brainstorming. As I told my students: no matter how silly or crazy your ideas may seem -to others or even yourself- the objective is to transfer everything in your head onto paper and get your creative juices flowing.

Based on the results they generated, I'm fairly certain they got the point.

One topic for practice: Gifts to commemorate 100 days of dating (a popular local custom). Students' responses spanned the conventional -a love letter, necklace, ring, and flowers, to the more unusual -plastic surgery, a break-up, and a yacht to name but a few.

It seems romance can assume all sorts of forms.

Fall Beauty Preview

2011-09-14T21:43:00.000+09:00

My favorite season is rapidly descending on Seoul. From flowers to trees, Autumn appears on its way and looks to be a good one.

Here's a quick preview, taken with an iPhone at Children's Grand Park:

Community

2011-09-13T20:22:00.010+09:00

Today while out exercising, I came across this group of ducks. It fascinated me that they conducted their preening activities all while being together in community. Oh to have duck-language translation superpowers and eavesdrop on their conversation! Are they like humans, sharing good news and bad? Do they gossip? Encourage one another? Build one another up and/or tear each other down?

The power of community is undeniable. It's a force that can be used for good or not, depending on the members.

I experienced the power of community in myriad social contexts over this long Chuseok weekend, and the timing was significant. Given that I've felt waves of fluctuating emotions related to the 9/11 anniversary, I was really grateful for the companionship.

More than ever, I realize the importance of actively embracing community; it's too precious to treat passively or take for granted.

Take initiative, get involved, make a difference.

Therefore, encourage one another and build each other up, just as in fact you are doing. -1 Thessalonians 5:11

Remembering

2011-09-11T11:30:00.000+09:00

Ten years ago today is one day I'll always remember. It's the only day of my life that I've thought about daily since it happened.

A few things I remember from September 11, 2001:

around 7:30am: talking on the phone with A. on my way to work; It's by Grace we've been saved, she said. We'd been discussing a personal matter which seemed like the most important issue in the world to me at that time.
around 8:30am: arriving at work later than usual.
around 9:00am: rescheduling an interview for a woman who couldn't meet; A plane hit the World Trade Center, she said. Thinking it was only a little prop plane, I thought that was a poor excuse for postponing an interview.
a few minutes later: checking CNN.com to read about the plane; feeling shocked to learn it was a commercial jet and not a little prop plane like I'd assumed.
soon after: calling my parents in CA to say I love you. Shortly after, the phone lines went dead.

For three hours, we were stuck in the office, not allowed to leave our building which was two blocks away from the WTC. I remember feeling surprisingly calm and reading a bit from my Bible which I kept on my desk.

When we finally were able to leave the building, I tried to walk up Broadway alone, wanting space and anxious to see what was happening. A police officer stopped me though. Too much wreckage, he said.

Walking along the east side, past South Street Seaport, through Chinatown, continuing up to my apartment in midtown, I kept looking behind me where the WTC once stood. All I could see was a giant mushroom cloud of smoke. It didn't seem real, and I kept thinking -hoping- maybe it was some David Blaine or David Copperfield magic stunt. If only.

I turned on my TV when I got home and watched endless hours of news coverage. It finally got to be too much. I wanted to do something to return to a state of normalcy.

And so I baked cookies. I needed an activity that I could control. Something that would make sense at a time when not much else did. Funny how we humans like to manipulate the smallest of circumstances to feel in charge. I still do this even though I know it's illogical and silly.

But I did change in a profound way that day. The fleetingness of life was never more real, and I grasped more clearly how important it is to build and nurture relationships. We're either here by accident and we die by accident, or we're intentionally here for a purpose and thus live and die for a purpose.

What do you believe?

-dedicated to AN and MCN who were with me in NYC

Baby What...?!

2011-09-10T20:28:00.001+09:00

Can someone please translate what this is all about? There's got to be a better English expression than this one.

Privileged

2011-09-09T23:39:00.000+09:00

It is a privilege to study the Bible without fear of persecution. And to do so openly, with friends, is a real blessing.

Tonight a small group of us began our study of the book of Daniel, as presented by the incredibly gifted Beth Moore. I am excited about this study for several reasons but one in particular is that Daniel and his three friends were men of integrity and adhered to their principles under the most challenging of work/life circumstances.

As part of our kick-off session, we each made a pledge to learn over the next several months. I can't wait to see what God teaches us through the lives of these brave men!

Then the king ordered Ashpenaz, chief of his court officials, to bring into the king’s service some of the Israelites from the royal family and the nobility— young men without any physical defect, handsome, showing aptitude for every kind of learning, well informed, quick to understand, and qualified to serve in the king’s palace. He was to teach them the language and literature of the Babylonians [... ]

Among those who were chosen were some from Judah: Daniel, Hananiah, Mishael and Azariah. -Daniel 1:3-4;6

Back to Baking

2011-09-08T19:02:00.000+09:00

Those who knew me back when (pre-Korea), know that one of my hobbies is baking. That may surprise those of you who know me since moving to Seoul as up until last night, I'd yet to bake anything. But I suppose it was only a matter of time before I'd return to this love. I'd really started to miss it -the chemistry involved in mixing liquids and solids and producing something so fragrant and tasty...

Earlier this week, a co-worker dropped a travel magazine into my hands featuring articles on the Carolinas. A recipe for Peach Praline Cobbler caught my eye, and I'd been kind of obsessing over it since. Finally, last night, I couldn't stand it any longer, and thus set out to bake the dessert.

Armed with the recipe, I headed to E-Mart to pick up ingredients, namely peaches, butter, sugar (brown + white), and pecans; I had flour already at home. As is often the case here, what I thought I was purchasing and what I actually got were not necessarily the same. Case in point: the peaches, already pre-packaged in a bag labeled peaches, turned out to be nectarines. And the butter -marked butter on the box with lots of other words in Korean- looks, smells, and tastes like margarine. Oh, and my search for pecans turned up empty.

Nevertheless, I was determined and not deterred. Good thing, too. Within 90 minutes, my apartment was filled with the sweet aroma of freshly baked goodness, and I had a highly-edible pastry-like confection to boot. Very rewarding and exciting.

Tonight I feel inspired to do it again. A rendezvous with friends tomorrow is my excuse for indulging in this rediscovered hobby (after all, I need something to bring to the event), but at this stage, any reason will do.

End Malaria Day

2011-09-07T21:56:00.001+09:00

Thanks to Internet technology and social networking, I learned that today is End Malaria Day. Believe it or not, there are some easy yet powerful things you can do right now at your computer to support the cause. Here's a few that I've done in the past 15 minutes:

Read up on World Vision's End Malaria Campaign here: http://www.endmalaria.org/index.php
For just $6, you can buy a long-lasting, insecticide-treated bed net that will literally save someone's life: http://donate.worldvision.org/OA_HTML/xxwv2ibeCCtpItmDspRte.jsp?item=1849059&go=item&
Get inspired and check out this new book, End Malaria, a compilation of short essays by some of business's sharpest minds. For every paperback edition sold, $20 will go to Malaria No More, an organization committed to ending malaria by 2015.
Copy and paste a link to this blog posting into your Facebook status (or put the info into an email and send to 10 friends).

Thank you for reading and for your willingness to at least consider how you can make a difference in the fight against malaria.